Beers of the Volgadeutsch

This article originally appeared in the May/June 2023 issue of Zymurgy Magazine

By David J. Schmidt

Ressurecting Brewing Traditions of the Germans from Russia

Jakob and Wilhel walked between rows of rye grain on the steppes of southern Russia. The waters of the Volga River shimmered in the distance beneath the bright August sun, framing the profile of their village. The architecture here contrasted with towns from other parts of Russia: this was one of the hundreds of communities built by German settlers along the banks of the Volga, a people known in their own language as the Volgadeutsch.

Jakob and Wilhelm stood by the dusty road along with the other laborers. “Arbeit mach da Leben Süss,” Wilheln said, quoting the old Volgadeutsch proverb: “Work makes life sweet.”

“That’s what they say,” panted Jakob. He wiped his sweaty brow in the muggy summer heat. At last, he heard the creaking wheels of the wagon and raised his head with a smile. “Now there’s something that really makes life sweet!”

The wagon rolled to a stop in a cloud of dust beside the farmers. The driver hopped down from the buckboard, unplugged a barrel, and poured a mug of frothy homemade ale for Jakob, Wilhelm, and the other workers.

This scene would have been common in the lives of my ancestors, the Volga Germans of southern Russia. For this article, I have embarked on a search for their ancient brewing traditions.

Access the full article in the May/June 2023 Zymurgy magazine.

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