The only thing I generally do to doctor them up is to add some hops at flameout to get a better hop character, and possibly use a different yeast. If you wanted a bit more malt character, you could steep some grains as you heat your water.
I could add some hops, once I get my custom-built hop spider made and shipped. I'm having one made that's four inches in diameter by sixteen inches long; screen size is 300 microns. I'm having the horizontal portion of the "hanging fingers" extended such that I can fit a 3/4" dowel under them and between the outer periphery of the diameter. This is so I can use the spider to stir the wort. If I knew how to post-up a picture, I would. I have tried in the past and was met with a Hindenburg-level disaster. The vertical portion of the fingers will be five inches long so that the thang will hang securely over the brim of the kettle (which is seventeen inches deep) and not fall into the wort if I don't have the dowel in-place. The hop spider is being made by ArborFab (
www.arborfab.com); price is a ridiculously low seventy bucks. ArborFab makes several hop spiders (they call them "beer filters") in different lengths and diameters. The gentleman with whom I dealt was knowledgeable about hop spiders and very patient while I sorted-out exactly what I wanted to be made. They are made of tasty 304 stainless steel...
Back to my mr. beer concerns...
I never use the yeast that comes with the mr. beer tins. I always use Safale US-05; the entire eleven grams. Why skimp? The stuff is cheap and the yeast love to eat sugar. Keep the little buggers happy, eh?
Which grains would I want to steep in my heating-up water? I have American Porter and American Ale in 1.87-pound cans. I have Northwest Pale Ale and Diablo IPA in 2.86-pound cans. My philosophy is to make them with nothing special added; just make per the original directions and see what I get. If I want more hoppiness, I can add a little come the next batch. I'll have a hop spider as deep as my kettle with which to do it...