[soymateofeo]

I have a 2 x20  stainless triclamp pipe.  Is there any reason why I can't put a dernord triclamp heating element on the end and use it like the brewhardware heat stick?  It would be submersible right?  Am I crazy?

I'm not trying to kill myself but I could make that for 40 bucks and speed up my mash and boil.

[Richard]

Heat sticks should only be used in water, not wort. It could save you time getting to strike temperature but wouldn't help getting to a boil.

[noonancm]

I beg to differ with Richard but you can use heat sticks in wort. One 110 volt is not enough for a boil but 2 is more than enough. I have been using them for years; but I had to make a power regular to control the boil. They have allowed to brew in the air-conditioning in the summer and a warm house in the winter snow storms.

There are websites for their creation. One caution is to clean the heating elements with a dobie pad after use to prevent build-up of sugar. Not a big deal. Also you will need a pvc pipe to glue on in order to handle the stainless steel.

Finally make sure the sticks are in liquid - water or wort - before plugging them in or the elements will burn out.

 

[soymateofeo]

I beg to differ with Richard but you can use heat sticks in wort. One 110 volt is not enough for a boil but 2 is more than enough. I have been using them for years; but I had to make a power regular to control the boil. They have allowed to brew in the air-conditioning in the summer and a warm house in the winter snow storms.

There are websites for their creation. One caution is to clean the heating elements with a dobie pad after use to prevent build-up of sugar. Not a big deal. Also you will need a pvc pipe to glue on in order to handle the stainless steel.

Finally make sure the sticks are in liquid - water or wort - before plugging them in or the elements will burn out.

So you diy'd the heat stick or jus added a controller to the brewhardware one.  I have a PID that would work for that.  Or I could easily get an analog controller.

[noonancm]

Sorry for not getting back sooner but I was trying to upload a picture of my set up.

I brew in the basement, in and around the laundry and furnace room. And so, much of my set up has to be portable and be able to be stored.

I made my heatsticks. both of which can be plugged into a wall socket. For the controller, I adapted from an extra tool box I had lying around. I bought the regulator from Auber instruments. In the tool box, I cut notches on the side for the heatsink to slide onto. holes for the display and for the wall socket that the heat stick can plug into. Finally a hoe on the other side of the box for an extension cord to be pulled out and plugged into the wall. The regulator also has a temperature sensor that runs into the pot.

As I am cooling the wort, I unplug the extension and pull it into the box, wrap up the sensor, unplug the one heatstick from the box and clean it. Allow the heatsink to cool and place it into the box. Close the lid and place the tool box over by the bottle. Of course, I had also uplugged earlier the second heat stick and cleaned it also.

Sorry again about not having a picture but I will figure it out eventually.

[soymateofeo]

Oh wow.  A pic please!!!!!

[noonancm]

Here are several
 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vu5hVorD1E81XjvBA

let me know if you can see them

[soymateofeo]

Ok.  That is a long the lines of what I was thinking.  What is that putty looking sealer on there?

[noonancm]

Not putty.
The original website that I no longer can find suggested using JD Weld to join all the parts and then cover it with sealant that I longer find. The stuff you see in the picture is something I tried but I am not particularly pleased as it seems to not seal. But the JD Weld is apparently waterproofing the sticks.

Here is a site that apparently does not even use anything to seal:
https://www.instructables.com/Heat-Stick/

Here is a site that uses DAP sealant.

[noonancm]

[Lothric]

No, you're not crazy. Using a Dernord heating element in a triclamp pipe for brewing is a feasible option. However, there are important factors to consider. The element's wattage should be suitable for your brew volume and desired heating rate. It should be long enough to fully submerge in the liquid. Proper electrical connections and grounding are crucial, and a GFCI outlet is recommended. You'll need a way to regulate temperature, such as a temperature controller with a relay. Ensure the materials of the element and pipe are compatible with your brewing liquids. Stainless steel is generally safe. Building your own heating element can be cost-effective and customizable. Consider protecting the temperature sensor with a thermowell and testing the element thoroughly before brewing. With careful planning and attention to safety, this can be a successful and cost-effective way to heat your brew kettle.

Looking for more cost-effective brewing solutions? Consider exploring free HVAC leads to potentially find a more efficient heating system for your brewery.