[BrewBama]

I’ve had pretty good luck with these




*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

[BrewBama]

First test run/leak ck. The Buckeye Hydro instructions recommend running three gallons thru the RO filter. This test run will be timed to see how long that takes.

I plan to mount it on a shelf on the wall near the sink.



…and route the output hose around the room to the kettle




Edit:  the test revealed a cpl leaks that I fixed and the time was slower than anticipated so I adjusted restriction. After repair/adjustments, I re-ran a gallon in 26 minutes. On my yearly report the County found 140 TDS. I measured 108 at the tap and 14 with a 6.8 pH at the collection point.

That should mean my 7 gal normal brewing water should take ~3 hours and I honestly thought TDS would be single digit but this is acceptable for me.

I have another restrictor on order but this should be good for my planned brewday on Fri.

[Joe_Beer]

I have another restrictor on order but this should be good for my planned brewday on Fri.

Nice setup!
FWIW, I still use my ball valve as the restrictor.  I realized I could open it all the way for a couple minutes to flush the membrane when output slows (I have like a +300 TDS on the feed). Seems like it gets a build-up after a couple hours of filtering and the flush seems to get things moving again.

[BrewBama]

That’s a good idea. I may add a proper flush valve later. For now I’ll simply remove the restricted waste line and replace it with an unrestricted line, flush, then reinstall the restricted line for use.

Here’s my final assembly. I use the low point drain to collect filtered water for the coffee pot, ice tea maker, humidifier, etc, basically any machine where I am required to add water. …and of course to drain the feed line.

[Wilbur]

I have a 1 micron sediment filter and housing, a carbon block filter and housing, and various ball valves and quick disconnects on hand. I ordered a 100 gpd RO element and housing along with associated fittings and tubing as well as a TDS meter from Buckeye Hydro.

Sounds like a decent plan.  1 micron is more than small enough, but that shouldn't matter.  I assume you're on a municipal water system and need the carbon...that should be good.  I'm not a fan of employing high rate RO elements since they're on the ragged edge of performance.  I prefer 50 to 75 gpd elements and using a storage tank of some sort.  Then the element flow rate becomes somewhat immaterial.  Just make sure that your tank is large enough to meet your brewday needs.

Is there any concern with having too big of a storage tank?

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[HopDen]

I have a 1 micron sediment filter and housing, a carbon block filter and housing, and various ball valves and quick disconnects on hand. I ordered a 100 gpd RO element and housing along with associated fittings and tubing as well as a TDS meter from Buckeye Hydro.

Sounds like a decent plan.  1 micron is more than small enough, but that shouldn't matter.  I assume you're on a municipal water system and need the carbon...that should be good.  I'm not a fan of employing high rate RO elements since they're on the ragged edge of performance.  I prefer 50 to 75 gpd elements and using a storage tank of some sort.  Then the element flow rate becomes somewhat immaterial.  Just make sure that your tank is large enough to meet your brewday needs.

Is there any concern with having too big of a storage tank?

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I don't see the need for a storage tank, large or small unless one is brewing multiple small batch size recipes back to back to back in a relatively short period of time IMO.

Personally I fill both my MT and LT simultaneously a day or two before brew day. (25-30 gallon total)

Martin, can you expound on the benefit of a storage tank please?

[tommymorris]

I have a 1 micron sediment filter and housing, a carbon block filter and housing, and various ball valves and quick disconnects on hand. I ordered a 100 gpd RO element and housing along with associated fittings and tubing as well as a TDS meter from Buckeye Hydro.

Sounds like a decent plan.  1 micron is more than small enough, but that shouldn't matter.  I assume you're on a municipal water system and need the carbon...that should be good.  I'm not a fan of employing high rate RO elements since they're on the ragged edge of performance.  I prefer 50 to 75 gpd elements and using a storage tank of some sort.  Then the element flow rate becomes somewhat immaterial.  Just make sure that your tank is large enough to meet your brewday needs.

Is there any concern with having too big of a storage tank?

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I don't see the need for a storage tank, large or small unless one is brewing multiple small batch size recipes back to back to back in a relatively short period of time IMO.

Personally I fill both my MT and LT simultaneously a day or two before brew day. (25-30 gallon total)

Martin, can you expound on the benefit of a storage tank please?

I think the storage tank allows you to drink a glass of water, right after your wife and kids each have a glass of water, anytime

I think if you’re only using RO for brewing you can temporarily store RO water in your mash tun, kettle, a bucket, etc. until you brew, as you’re doing.

[mabrungard]

A storage tank provides instant access to the volume of water it stores.  That avoids the need to wait for a RO system to produce that water.  If you pre-plan your water needs and can live within that requirement, then you're OK.

[HopDen]

I have a 1 micron sediment filter and housing, a carbon block filter and housing, and various ball valves and quick disconnects on hand. I ordered a 100 gpd RO element and housing along with associated fittings and tubing as well as a TDS meter from Buckeye Hydro.

Sounds like a decent plan.  1 micron is more than small enough, but that shouldn't matter.  I assume you're on a municipal water system and need the carbon...that should be good.  I'm not a fan of employing high rate RO elements since they're on the ragged edge of performance.  I prefer 50 to 75 gpd elements and using a storage tank of some sort.  Then the element flow rate becomes somewhat immaterial.  Just make sure that your tank is large enough to meet your brewday needs.

Is there any concern with having too big of a storage tank?

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I don't see the need for a storage tank, large or small unless one is brewing multiple small batch size recipes back to back to back in a relatively short period of time IMO.

Personally I fill both my MT and LT simultaneously a day or two before brew day. (25-30 gallon total)

Martin, can you expound on the benefit of a storage tank please?

I think the storage tank allows you to drink a glass of water, right after your wife and kids each have a glass of water, anytime

I think if you’re only using RO for brewing you can temporarily store RO water in your mash tun, kettle, a bucket, etc. until you brew, as you’re doing.

LOL!! Thanks for that!! I only make water for brewing and the wife waits for that!!

[BrewBama]

Your muni water system is probably pumping 75-100 psi from its filtration plant not to mention head pressure from elevated storage tanks. I doubt very much if you would need a booster pump or pressure tank at all. My pressure at the water meter is 70+ psi and I haven't had any issues with with my RO performing as would be expected. Good luck!

I used the pressure gauge to measure my faucet pressure: 35 psi.

I placed it between the pre filters and RO membrane: a little over 30 psi.

I am getting 86% reject rate where I anticipated 90% (14 TDS vs 7 TDS). ~26 min per gal vs ~15. A bit of performance loss.

So… I didn’t get the intended 100 gpd performance. I may add a boost pump later when I do a filter change to get it to 50 psi to see if performance improves. I may not.


*Disclaimer*: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

[Joe_Beer]

A storage tank provides instant access to the volume of water it stores.  That avoids the need to wait for a RO system to produce that water.  If you pre-plan your water needs and can live within that requirement, then you're OK.

Thanks Martin. Would you have any concerns leaving carbon filtered RO water sit in a jug or tank for an extended period of time? It's no longer chlorinated so I'm always wondering how long is too long. I realize the sanitization of the storage vessel matters here too but just wondering what your thoughts are on that.

[ynotbrusum]

If you are boiling the water, it should be no problem….

[Joe_Beer]

If you are boiling the water, it should be no problem….

True, but I'm thinking more about how long a gallon of (carbon filtered) R/O water can sit around that might not be boiled. Like those undersink storage tanks for drinking water, or a jug of R/O under the sink for the neti pot.

[ynotbrusum]

If the tank or container is clean, I would expect months, if not years.  If in doubt, boil or treat it.

[HopDen]

Try an experiment. Open a new bottle of water, not spring water but regular bottled water from say Sam's Club. Pour half out and with lid attached leave for a month and then taste and smell it. Me thinks it will smell and taste like s***! By the way, i have done this very thing on accident.